Reflecting on Etymology
The term 'carnelian' is widely believed to originate from the Latin word 'Carne,' which translates to 'flesh.' A look at the semi-precious stone displayed above offers a clear understanding of why the ancient Romans opted for this descriptor for this member of the cryptocrystalline agate family.

Carnelian has been revered as a cherished gemstone since the Neolithic period. Evidence of carnelian ornaments and beads can be traced back to the Bronze Age, with discoveries in the Indus Valley, Mesopotamia, and Egypt. Subsequently, the Persians, Greeks, and Romans utilized the stone, particularly for seal engravings. The stone's enduring appeal continued into the Medieval period, where the mystic Hildegard von Bingen extolled its healing virtues. She proposed that the name 'carnelian' was derived from cornel cherries, attributing this to the similarity in color. While Hildegard and others who support the cherry connection are justified within their local contexts, the idea of assigning a globally esteemed stone, treasured since the Neolithic era, a name derived from cornel cherries seems somewhat amusing to me.

Egyptian carnelian Tet Amulet
New Kingdom Dynasty - XIX-XX,
1307-1070 B.C.

The Egyptian Book of the Dead signified red as a representation of blood, and therefore, life and vitality. The Isis girdle/knot-amulet, known as Tet (Tyet), was crafted from carnelian and invoked with the phrase: "Oh, blood of Isis." This amulet was buried with the deceased and was typically made from a red semi-precious stone like carnelian or red jasper. In this context, the Tet amulet was symbolic of the blood, power, and strength of the goddess Isis. It was believed to offer protection against all forms of evil and aid the deceased in their journey through the underworld.

Delving Deeper into the Historical Symbolism
As we trace our steps back through history, symbolic interpretation becomes paramount. In a world shaped by magical thinking and analogies, the connections between the hues of carnelian and blood are compelling and intuitive. It wouldn't be surprising if the ancient civilizations of India and Mesopotamia held similar beliefs, or at the very least, were submerged in similar layers of Bronze Age symbolic connotations. However, it was the Romans who coined the term 'carne,' not these ancient cultures.

The Romans built their civilization extensively on the foundation of Greek and Greco-Egyptian cultures. Within this context, it's noteworthy that Isis was the most widely revered Egyptian deity exported to the Greco-Roman world. Consequently, it's not inconceivable that the term 'carne' and the deeper meaning behind it could have been influenced by the cult of Isis, and by extension, the ancient river cultures that preceded them.

Even from a chemical perspective, the association between 'carne' and carnelian holds water. Iron oxides, which impart color to both blood and carnelian in the form of hemoglobin and hematite, draw a clear connection. If we were to apply Occam's razor to the world of etymology, the derivation of carnelian from 'carne' emerges as a plausible choice.

The European localized cherry could have been an apt metaphor for Hildegard von Bingen, but even if it were the true origin of the naming of carnelian, it would carry many neo-colonial implications. A potentially incorrect but more historically symbolic, respectful, and less Eurocentric name might be more appropriate. This isn't an attempt to introduce 'wokeness' into the realm of bead study, but a touch of provocative inspiration from diverse and seemingly unconventional ideologies can sometimes spark enlightening discourse
  
Exploring Variations in Appearance and Color
Carnelian, however, isn't just confined to the color red. It can be found in a myriad of shades, spanning from yellow to orange to darker shades of red, and even brown. The luster of the stone can vary as well, ranging from a waxy or resinous sheen to a creamy or vitreous gloss. Translucent carnelian is a rarity and is often highly prized for its unique appeal.

The Significance of Indian Carnelian
Carnelian has been sourced from numerous locations worldwide, including Australia, Europe, and America. However, some of the most exquisite carnelian pieces are believed to have originated from India, a claim supported by the stunning beads on display here. India has a long history of shaping carnelian into valued art objects, a tradition that dates back to the Neolithic era. This practice did not diminish with the advent of the Mughals in India.
 

 
Source:
The Gods
and symbols of ancient Egypt

Thames &
Hudson
Manfred Lurker

Amulets of
ancient Egypt
Andrews
British
Museum Press

Carnelian, in its pure and natural form, can be discovered showcasing a wide array of colors, including yellow, orange, red, and brown. However, in contemporary times, discovering natural deep red or orange carnelian has become somewhat of a rarity. This scarcity is primarily due to the immense popularity these stones have enjoyed since the Neolithic era.

Intense red and orange hues in carnelian are typically associated with hot climate zones. It is in these regions that nature's own heat treatment, occurring over millennia, has gradually transformed the original hydroxy-based colors into a rusty-looking hematite carnelian. This is particularly true for Indian carnelian. Over countless centuries, exposure to the scorching sun slowly facilitated the conversion of iron hydroxide into iron oxide, leading to the highly sought-after red coloration. Thus, it could be said that the Indian carnelian simply 'rusted' over time. Intriguingly, carnelian seems to uniquely possess this quality among the varieties of cryptocrystalline quartz, becoming more vibrant and attractive when subjected to heat.

However, by the late Bronze Age, the escalating demand had started depleting the natural reserves of red carnelian. This led to the development of techniques to artificially heat suitable stones to achieve the desired coloration. In fact, the demand for this captivating blood-colored stone was so high that natural sun-baked carnelian became difficult to acquire, even in its place of origin, India. Consequently, the ingenious inhabitants of the Indus Valley developed the technique of transforming chalcedony into carnelian through heat treatment.

In today's context, when we examine an ancient carnelian bead, it is virtually impossible to ascertain whether the stone has undergone heat treatment or not.
 
A brief enchantment with Carnelian
Observe the photograph below, a tableau I chanced upon in the Moroccan Sahara, close to Hamid. Here, remnants of Neolithic flint tools are scattered across the hardened crust of the desert. Among them is a seemingly out-of-place stone, a small carnelian piece that appears to be part of the assemblage of flint scrapers. These tools were crafted and used by ancient humans at a time when the Sahara teemed with life, verdant and lush.

Interestingly, this piece of carnelian is strikingly similar to high-quality carnelian pebbles I've seen from Lothal, India.. This leaves us with a tantalizing question: could there have been an ancient trade network stretching from Africa to India, even during these primitive times? Or was this simply a result of the relentless Saharan heat working its alchemy on the stones?

Click on the picture for a larger version

Carnelian of a deep Red-Orange Translucent and Homogenous color
It's worth noting that there is considerable variation in the quality of carnelian. Stones that are translucent and exhibit a uniform color have been most highly prized since antiquity. The ideal carnelian, be it used for beads or other art forms, should be free of banding and possess a deep, translucent red-orange hue. This characteristic is apparent in the ancient bicone beads from the Indian Indus Valley, which are showcased below.

The iron oxides responsible for carnelian's coloring can be uniformly distributed, as seen in the Indus Valley beads, or they can manifest in gradients, as shown in the bead pictured above. The iron oxide patterns can also appear as cloud-like patches, or as reddish specks that are referred to as 'blood spots' by Tibetans.

Chung DZI with blood spots

Bead Production in Cambay
Beads are frequent globetrotters, their journey often seeming ceaseless. But every bead has an origin, a place where it was created. A large proportion of ancient carnelian beads discovered worldwide originate from India. Bead making was widespread throughout the continent, with locations of production heavily dependent on the availability of suitable materials. While agate and jasper can be found in many parts of South Asia, the scope, diversity, and abundance of resources in Gujarat is unparalleled. This could explain why Gujarat, particularly an area known as Cambay, maintains a vibrant bead-making tradition. This locale is where the skills of ancient bead masters have endured through the centuries to the present day.

More accurately, it's the nearby region of Lothal, a Harappan outpost, that has served as a stone-working center since the Indus Valley people began crafting beads from the region's abundant deposits of carnelian, onyx, and agate. Lothal dates back around 4000 years, but the Indus people started bead making and exporting over 5500 years ago!

Carnelian pebbles from an Indus site in Lothal

The Splendid Cambay Carnelian
The carnelian from Gujarat, specifically around Cambay, is renowned for its superb red-orange color, as can be observed even in the small carnelian pebbles from Lothal depicted above. This is primarily attributed to the region's high iron content.

Since the Indus period, individuals equipped with rudimentary tools have been burrowing into the iron-rich Miocene agate formations in the Babaguru formation.

The striking dark red colors are enhanced by drying the stones in the sun, followed by repeated heating. The techniques and tools utilized by Indian artists have changed little since the time of the Indus Valley culture. Their beads are entirely handcrafted, which results in less uniformity in size and shape but infuses each piece with a warmth and beauty distinctive to handcrafted items. Due to their enduring allure, Cambay remains one of the world's largest stone manufacturing locations. The region's primary market has traditionally been Africa.

However, according to my friend and esteemed bead expert, Sanatan Khavadiya, the deepest red carnelian originated from Aurangabad in Maharashtra! This serves as a gentle reminder of how much we still have to learn about beads and the world at large.

 
The Global Dissemination of Beads Facilitated by Islam
Starting around AD 1300, the bead-making industry in the Cambay area began to prosper once again. This resurgence was largely due to the artisans who crafted Muslim amulets, prayer strands, and a vast quantity of carnelian beads, primarily for the African and Middle Eastern markets. These goods were transported by Arab traders to East Africa aboard monsoon-propelled dhows, or brought to Mecca and Cairo before reaching West Africa via camel caravans. Consequently, Muslims became significant transporters of beads, primarily due to the religious imperative of Hajj, which mandates every Muslim to make a pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in their lifetime, regardless of their global location. Beads, being easy to carry and exchange for provisions, were an ideal commodity for these long, arduous journeys.

Islam, an international religion, served as a significant cultural phenomenon, with Arabic being the lingua franca. At its zenith, Islam brought together people from diverse races and cultures, creating an enormous global melting pot. Once a person converted to Islam, their skin color and native language became irrelevant. Wherever Islam was present, beads followed, and they became as intertwined as the people who wore them.

Prior to the rise of Islam, Buddhism served a similar role, facilitating the spread of beads in contrast to the more feudal and stationary Hindu caste culture.

The Holy Bead Man, Baba Ghor
Around 1500, the bead industry in Cambay witnessed further expansion, reaching unprecedented levels of production. This growth was driven by Muslim settlers, particularly under the leadership of an Ethiopian saint known as Baba Ghor, or the "Holy Bead Man." His arrival initiated a period of mass bead production on a scale that was previously unknown.

Cambay vs. Idar-Oberstein
The Indian bead industry enjoyed a virtual monopoly on carnelian bead production for many centuries. However, this position was challenged in the 19th century when the city of Idar-Oberstein in Germany began to carve carnelian beads and ornaments. Idar-Oberstein was renowned for its gemstone carving and polishing industries, which took advantage of the high-quality agates found in the region.

The skilled craftsmen of Idar-Oberstein were able to create carnelian beads of exceptional quality and intricate design, exceeding what was produced in Cambay. Their superior techniques and the use of water-powered machines for cutting and polishing gave them a competitive edge, allowing them to produce a higher volume of beads more quickly and efficiently.

This competition from Germany was further compounded when Bohemia (now a part of the Czech Republic), known for its glass-making industry, began mass-producing molded glass beads that imitated carnelian. These imitation beads were cheaper to produce and buy, and they soon flooded the African market, which had been a major destination for Cambay's beads.

The Indian bead industry struggled to compete with these new entrants. The superior quality of Idar-Oberstein's beads and the cheaper price of the Bohemian glass imitations significantly impacted the Cambay bead trade, leading to a significant decline in the region's bead-making industry.

ANCIENT INDUS BEADS FROM INDIA VIA MESOPOTAMIA
The ancient heptagon-shaped carnelian bead shown below exudes a sense of timeless beauty. Its surface, etched by the passage of time, bears the resemblance of a face adorned with a myriad of wrinkles, each one a testament to its ancient origins. Under the surface, the bead reveals a deep, rich red hue characteristic of high-quality carnelian. Over the centuries, a thick layer of calcification has formed on its surface, further attesting to its great age and enduring allure. This layer is hard and resilient, protecting the precious stone beneath while also enhancing its ancient charm. Such relics offer us a tangible connection to the past, providing invaluable insights into the history and culture of the ancient civilizations that crafted and used them.

Although originally from India, these ancient carnelian beads traveled extensively through trade routes, notably reaching Mesopotamia. The circulation of these beads evidences the extensive trade networks and cultural interactions between ancient civilizations.
 

 
SMALL BICONICAL INDUS VALLEY CARNELIAN BEADS
The beads displayed below are typical for the Harappan Indus Civilization, with their special bicone-shaped design and large, hourglass shaped holes. The Indians call this shape the dholak design named after their ancient double drum.

You can see this type of beads displayed in the National Museum in New Delhi or in the British Museum. Below we can observe the same beads found in both an Egyptian and Mesopotamian grave. One can clearly see the Harappan origin of these beads.

CAMBEY CARNELIAN BEADS
The huge non-transparent bead below was sourced in Punjab, India. As one can observe on the sharp edges of the hole, this super-large and heavy carnelian bead has never been used, or at least not much. It looks new. However, the discoloring made by calcium in the earth reveals that this bead actually is ancient. I have found exactly similar beads in Africa. In the section with African Fulani Beads, you can observe these beads.
 

This bead is an example of the huge bead trade from India to Africa going on since ancient times.

Fulani bead sourced from Africa

CARN 57 - 18 * 13 mm - SOLD
Hexagon
Moroccan Sahara
 

Neolithic Crystal beads from West Sahara - 12 * 5 mm
 

 
CARN  58 - 22,5 * 12, 5 mm    
Heptagon carnelian bead
 

 

CARN 59 - 17,5 * 13 mm
Pentagon bead
 

 

CARN 60 - 18,2 * 11 mm
 

 

CARN 61 - 23-22 * 11,1 mm
 

 

CARN  62 - 18 * 12,5 mm
 

 

CARN 63  -  25-24 * 12 mm
 

 

CARN 64 - 15,9 * 9,3 mm
 

 

CARN  65 - 13,5-13  * 7,5 mm
 

 

CARN  66 - 20-19,5 * 12,1 mm
 

 

CARN  67 - 18 * 10,2 mm
 

 

CARN  68 - 19,5-18,5 * 13 mm
 

 

CARN  69 -  18 * 15 mm
 

 

CARN  70 - 15 * 12 mm
 

 

CARN 70  -  16 * 13 mm
 

 

CARN 72 - 17 * 11 mm
 

 

CARN  73 -  16 * 13 mm
 

 

CARN  74 - 21-18,5 * 10 mm
 

 

CARN 75 - 16,5 * 13 mm
 

 

CARN 76 - 18 * 10,1 mm
 

 

CARN  77 -  19-17 * 14 mm
 

 

CARN 78 - 12,5 * 12 mm
 

 

CARN  79 - 15 * 10 mm
 

 

CARN 80  - 14,5 * 9,5 mm
 

 

CARN  81 -  17-16 * 11,9 mm
 

 

CARN  82 - 16-15 * 8,5 mm
 

 

CARN  83 - 12,5 * 10 mm
 

 

CARN  84 - 17-16 * 10,9 mm
 

 

CARN LOT 85 -  left Middle: 12,8 * 8 mm
 

 
 
CARN  86 -  16 * 12 mm
 

 

CARN  87 -  20-19 * 11 mm -
Hexagon
Moroccan Sahara

This magick bead has been
polished almost round by time
  

Some of the beads above and below are thousands of years old. Others are from the times of Baba Ghor. in the 15. Century. Again others are trade beads from Idar Oberstein in the 18. Century:

How to tell the difference?  Often wear and tear is the only indicator of age because the designs of these beads are ancient. They can be traced back to Indus Culture. A comparison between the bead designs below with the bead shown in this Harappan link will further substantiate this claim. It is unlikely that Baba Ghor and his followers invented any new bead designs. Most probably, they did as Muslim conquerors were best at all the new territories they came to: sampling information and skills from the already existing cultures. The production in Idar Obersten again copied the Ghor beads to ensure a steady demand from Africa. In this way, the Germans made copies of Indus valley beads.
 

Baba Ghor beads?
How much wear and tear will carnelian beads have after 500 years? My guess is that the beads above are older than the Cambey Ghor period. The 6 beads below are in my opinion more in sync with not thousands, but hundreds of years of human time ravage.